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Friday, April 22, 2016

Mature Fashion: Flatter With Inside Lines

Evaluate how lines are used in this ensemble
From the last post we reviewed the importance of the silhouette of a garment and how those "outside lines" relate to our general body shape. Let's review how important the inside lines of the garments relate to camouflaging our perceived defects or enhancing our perceived assets. (notice, I say "perceived"...a woman may perceive a body part quite differently than the viewer of her body).

All garments usually have one or more vertical lines. Inside vertical lines include center seams, zippers, rows of vertical buttons, and other ornamental detail.  These lines usually lengthen and narrow a body shape.  An even greater slimming effect is generated if there is more than one vertical line closely situated by another. (if too far apart, they draw the eye horizontally, and widen the area. (remember, all of this is an illusion; "trompe d'oeil or fool the eye".) Several stripes placed vertically need to fall relatively straight.  Stripes or verticals such as small pleats can actually accentuate bulges in the wrong places if the lines are not straight; (many a woman has chosen ribbed tights that accentuate every bulge in her lower body) Wide vertical stripes can be used very creatively to balance an upper body to wide hips, and vice-versa. Basically, vertical lines can be used in many ways to create the figure illusion a woman desires.

Certain horizontal lines visually broaden and shorten.  I say certain lines because when used creatively to form a vertical effect making the eye move up and down. One such example is a narrow row of horizontal stripes down the middle of a garment. Strong horizontal lines across the shoulder broaden the shoulder, horizontal pocket flaps call attention to the area where placed, and if placed widely apart, widen the top.  An excellent design strategy for a triangular body shape, providing the pockets and flaps are in proportion to the body.

Stripes are one of the most confusing horizontal lines;(in fact, you note that I posted on this subject; so many stylists just take the "safe" way around the problem by decreeing a mature woman should not wear stripes)  Wide, colorful stripes boldly blazoned across a full bosom can be deadly; however, narrow closely placed together alternating or variegating across the top pull the eye up and down; the closer the color of the stripes to each other, the more lengthening the effect.  Stripes also can be used very successfully to balance wide hips by extending the width of the upper half of the body of a triangle shaped woman.  For a woman with a rocking, well shaped bosom, she may use a tasteful array of stripes across her "girls" to accent this desirable asset.(use care in this area; stripes work best when used all over or across the shoulder area.  Stripes also look best when one of the colors in the stripe match the color of the bottom. This lengthens the line of the body.  

A story: I have a friend (triangle shape) who recently bought a wonderful cream white silk blazer with thin navy and red paintbrush stripes,(just perfect for this upcoming spring )  The predominant color of the stripes is the cream white background. I recommended she wear cream white ankle length skimming trousers with cream white heeled shoes with this combination. What! white pants on a triangle!!  you bet; although her hips may be wide, they are nicely shaped; her biggest figure challenge is short legs in addition to the hips.  In this instance, the longest line she can generate to her lower body is more significant than the general "rule" that she wear a dark bottom .  The line of white color and her personal well toned shape make it a great choice for her. 

The last horizontal line I am discussing is the hemline  Hems occur on dresses, skirts, jackets, and blouses.  Care must be taken to be sure you choose the most flattering hem lengths for all of them; in the case of tucked in blouses, the waist line substitutes for the hem line.  It usually works best to style accordingly.

 Diagonal lines lengthen directly in proportion to the amount of the angle of the lines; the more vertical, the more they lengthen the area. V shaped necklines are diagonal lines, mirrored. Diagonal lines can also be very dramatic and are usually very kind to mature figures because they usually skim over any problem area.  I am always amazed of the rather small use that is made of diagonal designs in the "plus size" shops.  The only reason I can think of is because it takes more fabric to cut diagonal clothing (usually).  It also requires certain shaped garments because of the "pull" factor. ( For mature women who sew, consider this option for creating some "killer" fashions that can do a lot for any body type.()

Curved lines, depending upon their direction, usually perform the same functions as above, depending upon the direction of the curve. They are not as effective, in general, as straight lines but can be much more effective in flattering a figure asset if placed exactly where one wants them.  Curves are also a softer look and may appeal more to the "girlie" styles or when used dramatically to flatter a figure asset.

As you know by now, I strongly believe that each woman must completely analyze her body for every aspect and use the knowledge strategically when choosing and wearing her clothing, if she desires to make the most of herself. 

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