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Thursday, June 23, 2016

Mature Fashion:Wardrobe Basics


Designing a functional wardrobe means first eliminating all garments that do not belong in the closet.  Twice a year, every year, I review every item in my closet to remove "obsolete items," (we will discuss what items you choose to call "obsolete" later).  Items that are worn out or beyond repair or no longer fit and cannot be altered successfully (or economically!!) are obviously the first things to go.  I make three stacks of these items; one for re-cycling to thrift stores, one of items to be altered, and one for the garbage. My ideal is to leave nothing in the closet that does not fit and is not in good repair. It also means I have something to wear for any occasion, and it also means that it looks good on me. 

Although it is time consuming, I also suggest that a woman also take the following two-part "second step" in evaluating the clothing in her closet. Personally, I want every garment in my closet to "add value" to my wardrobe.  The color, lines, and patterns should flatter my body type and personal style, and it must not only fit, but fit properly.  Many times, a pair of pants might "fit", but they would be better if taken in 1/4 inch at the hips, or the sleeve length is just a fraction of an inch off. If a color, line,style, etc., does not flatter my figure, it should be put on the discard pile; if it needs even a slight alteration to improve my appearance, it should go on the alteration pile.  (I am working on this improvement now-I do most of my own alteration, so I have several things in that pile!!).

Once this task is completed, it is time to make a list of what garments must be added to the closet and what must be replaced. The goal is to have a closet containing garments and accessories that can be worn for any occasion, for any season, and of sufficient quantity for each of the personal roles a woman plays. Each ensemble should flatter me, be suitable to the occasion, and I should feel wonderful about myself when wearing it. 

 There is no "right" number of garments, although there are some general guidelines.  Basically, it is my belief that a closet should contain two types of garments; the "core" wardrobe that a woman can wear year after year and form the framework of the entire wardrobe. Choosing one or two neutral colors for basic garments such as good quality pants, skirts, sweaters, and blazer/jackets that can be interchanged to form several different combinations is always recommended.  I try to have one or more of each type of garment in each of my "core" colors, and ideally, in each silhouette that flatters my figure type.  This silhouette variety allows me update a look easily from season to season. (we will discuss this in greater detail in future posts).

These garments are usually the ones called "timeless" or "classic".  They should be simple in design; garments that have minimal detail lines that do not "date" them.. I recommend mostly un-patterned, or if there is a pattern, it is very conventional design such a small or medium houndstooth, etc (based on one's figure type, of course).  

This wardrobe also contains high quality accessories such high quality handbags, shoes, gloves, scarves, belts, etc., all that work with the core wardrobe.  The second type are the "temporary" additions; simple additions of accessories and seasonal tops that are in the modern fashion mainstream.  I never spend much money on these items. In fact, almost always I purchase these items at thrift shops or on sale at department stores.  This is the number one reason I watch the upcoming season's runway shows as soon as possible.  I am already beginning the process for scoping out articles for next spring.  (Although it is two months before S/S 2017, Resort 2017 shows are available on Vogue.com; I believe these shows give valuable hints of what will remain on trend for Spring/Summer fashions and I have been inspired by several looks).

Remember, that wearing the same clothing different ways that reflect fresh fashion trends cost no money at all, and there is almost always on trend combinations within your own closet. You all know that I recommend shopping your closet first before making any expenditures. One of the most common ways to freshen a look is in the mix of colors.  F/W is strongly based on the neutrals camel and gray.  Camel is frequently paired with a strawberry pink or a wine/plum purple.  Grey is in pearl shade and worn with white or other shade of grey and/or camel.  Since I have a lovely camel blazer that I love but does not flatter my complexion, I always wear another color close to my face that does flatter.  I happen to own a lovely pink cashmere scarf that will compliment me personally and update my F/W "looks".  I mentioned in another post that I have been saving for a quality pair of cream white boots for the season.  That is expected to be the only major purchase I make this fall.  All other "temporary" items in the closet have already been purchased, and all for less than $75.00. Of course, every woman makes her own decision as to how many "looks" she wants for a fresh fashion trend.  I usually like five or six "new" looks each season to intermingle with my existing wardrobe.  When I know which ones I will add (or retain) for S/S 2017, I will discard S/S 2016  trendy items.  (I already think that I will eliminate four items from my closet that have an anchor in the pattern.  I have already got my money's worth out of them, and I will be looking forward to a fresh look for next spring.)    

Arrangement of a closet is a personal thing; whether by color, garment type, etc., what ever organizational plan works best for you, is the best one to use.  I wish I could say the closet on the left was mine, but it belongs to a close friend of mine.  I asked her permission to show this closet to you.  As you can see, it is a master of organization, designed (and I might add, built by her) exactly to her personal specifications.) Everything has adequate storage space for her wardrobe, and she keeps it that way.

The "right" number of garments depend upon the woman's needs, closet space, budget, and fashion desires. What is important is that she always has enough of the "right" thing to wear, and the ensembles makes her feel wonderful when wearing them!.  

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