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Sunday, May 1, 2016

Fashion Basic: Flatter with Scale

Briefly speaking, scale simply means that if you wear anything that is appropriate to your body size (small, medium, large)-not body shape (triangle, rectangle, etc.)  you can affect an optical illusion of harmony between the size of the pattern and detail worn with your own body size. Inappropriate scale will appear "off" and negatively affect the overall combination.  There is actually a scientific definition in design of "comfortable" scale.  It is called "Phi" .  (For those of you who want to get mathematical on appropriate sizes  in relation to other objects, you can look up the principles-much too detailed for getting the gist of our context here!!) 

For the purpose of this post it is sufficient to say that the size of a pattern on a garment affects the overall "look" of your body; a large pattern on a small body frame is likely to overwhelm the woman wearing it.  A tiny repeating pattern on a large body frame will get lost and visually make the body appear larger.  A gigantic handbag on a petite small framed person is usually not one's best choice. This is also the principle for all accessories. (a gigantic scarf on a small frame, a handkerchief scarf on a large woman, etc. will not flatter the wearer)  Sometimes, you may choose to use large on small as a fashion statement, but unless styled properly, a woman could find "the clothes wearing her" rather than her "wearing the clothes".

In general, there are simply five body sizes; xsmall, small, medium, large, and extra large.  Today, the average woman is about 5'4" tall and weighs about 150-160 lbs. Based on the size of her wrist (6 inc or elbow breadth, this size of the bone in relation to one's height defines the body type (wrist size under 6" on a 5'2" woman is a small frame, wrist size that needs a 7" bracelet, is medium framed. If you need an 8" bracelet, you are probably large framed.  I don't have the measurements for what is considered xsmall or xlarge, but based on the above measurements, one could make a reasonable guess.  A woman can make her own judgement as to which category you believe you belong.

Basic suggestions for small bodies is to keep patterns small , color values about the same, and a dark background as opposed to light when wearing patterns.  The reverse is true is you are a big woman.  You can use these same principles to enhance or detract from individual body parts when wearing patterns.  In the picture above, you will note the white background of the print on the skirt gives both a monochromatic effect and with its small but widely placed print pattern projects width giving greater balance to my somewhat top heavy frame The loose fitting skirt adds to the effect.  (I have mentioned that my bottom size is smaller than my top.

Speaking of scale, when reviewing the picture of my styled ensemble, I did not like the scale of the white handbag.  It is too large for both my body frame, and too large for the scale of the print and accessories.  I substituted the dull gold and cream bag with the pink crystal decor.  You can't tell from the pictures but it is 2/3 of the size of the Fiore cream handbag..  Both the scale and the proportion are a better match for the ensemble. (proportion is the subject of the next post..)

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